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#1
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Beginner Equipment choices.
Before I start a little background: I'm moving to Colorado next month... I
live in Illinois now. I've been to the two local shops and was unimpressed... That's why I'm unleashing the deluge of questions you see here... I hate people like me... Is there a FAQ somewhere? With that said; I understand the basic differences between a beginner board and a pro-level board. I think it would be a detriment to my learning if I went out and bought a board built for someone far more advanced than I am. Does the same go for boots? My logic says, 'no, buy a comfortable boot and binding combo and upgrade the board when it's time'. Basically correct? Or so far off it's sick? n. |
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#2
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Beginner Equipment choices.
Before I start a little background: I'm moving to Colorado next month... I
live in Illinois now. I've been to the two local shops and was unimpressed... That's why I'm unleashing the deluge of questions you see here... I hate people like me... Is there a FAQ somewhere? http://rssfaq.org With that said; I understand the basic differences between a beginner board and a pro-level board. I think it would be a detriment to my learning if I went out and bought a board built for someone far more advanced than I am. Yes and no. Yes, some kinds of "pro-level" boards would be a detriment to your learning. For example, if you get a board that is very specific to one type of riding, like a board with recessed edges for rails at the expense of holding an edge on snowor a boardercross board that's built for stability at speed at the expense of being able to turn it easily when going slower. However a high-end, all-around freestyle or freeride board that's high-end becasue it's made from good materials, well designed, and durable might help you learn better and faster. Look for something that you won't kill yourself on now but that you won't outgrow! Does the same go for boots? My logic says, 'no, buy a comfortable boot and binding combo and upgrade the board when it's time'. Basically correct? Or so far off it's sick? In my opinion you're right on with that appraoch. Buy boots that fit, then get bidnings that work well with those boots, and use whatever is left on a board. You can save money on a board by getting leftovers from last year's models, buying at the end of the season (e.g. right now) or in a few cases by buying direct from the smaller manufacturers. Most people find the mid to high end boots are also the ones that tend to fit the best, but not always. The best time to shop for boots is right after the shops get stocked up in the fall, when they have the full selection available. -Mike T |
#3
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Beginner Equipment choices.
On Mon, 22 Mar 2004 04:25:43 GMT, "Nathan Otis"
wrote: Before I start a little background: I'm moving to Colorado next month... I live in Illinois now. I've been to the two local shops and was unimpressed... That's why I'm unleashing the deluge of questions you see here... I hate people like me... Is there a FAQ somewhere? With that said; I understand the basic differences between a beginner board and a pro-level board. I think it would be a detriment to my learning if I went out and bought a board built for someone far more advanced than I am. Does the same go for boots? My logic says, 'no, buy a comfortable boot and binding combo and upgrade the board when it's time'. Basically correct? Or so far off it's sick? n. 1st purchase should be made for boots...get the most expensive boots you can afford....chances are you will out grow your board( bindings) way before you outgrow the boots...unless you are a young teen or something like that.. Generally beginner boards are softer with more flex...makes it easier to initiate turns but not soo stable at higher speeds.. |
#4
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Beginner Equipment choices.
I've considered your statements and questions. My questions and opinions are
below. Nathan Otis wrote: Before I start a little background: I'm moving to Colorado next month... I live in Illinois now What is your age? You do not need to answer in public. The reason for the question is to determine if you are still growing. You have to decide if you want to spend $400-$500 on a good board if your body will outgrow it in a year or two. Keep in mind that the hills in the midwest are not the same as the mountains in the west. I also live in the midwest, and we have short, groomed hills that usually have little variation in terrain from top to bottom. With that said; I understand the basic differences between a beginner board and a pro-level board. I think it would be a detriment to my learning if I went out and bought a board built for someone far more advanced than I am. I think I disagree with your statement, but I am not sure. It depends upon what you mean by "pro-level" board. There are multiple meanings and I do not know what you consider a "pro-level" board. You might mean a board specialized for a single type of boarding. Or perhaps you mean a board that uses the latest and most expensive technologies. Or maybe you mean something else. There are different types of boarding and there are different types of boards. Some boards are specialized for the different types of boarding. Some boards are compromises that will be okay but not the best in multiple environments. If you have questions you want a sales person who is a boarder and knows the difference between different types of boarding. Some sales people are boarders but only live in one environment, such as a terrain park. A specialized terrain park board isn't going to make a great powder board, for example. Some boards will be okay in a terrain park and on groomed hills, but won't be the best board for either situation, which is often fine for the short, groomed hills of the midwest. Do you know what type of boarding you want to do? If not, then starting with a multiple purpose board would probably be best. After a while you might want a board specialized for a particular type of boarding. If you plan to board under multiple conditions you might want multiple, specialized boards. For example, you might want to be a half pipe pro and also board in 3 foot deep powder. Does the same go for boots? My logic says, 'no, buy a comfortable boot and binding combo and upgrade the board when it's time'. Get the best boots you can find that correspond with the type of boarding that you plan to do. You will be on your feet constantly. The problem is defining "best". Best does not necessarily mean the most costly. I recently upgraded my boots. I say that my new boots are an upgrade because they fit better. By "fit better" I do not mean they are more comfortable, I mean they have more adjustments for creating and keeping a snug fit while remaining comfortable and they have the amount of stiffness that I want. I bought them on sale, and they cost the same as my first pair, but they are much better (list $300, on sale for under $200). Try on many brands and models within a brand. Don't let a sales person push you into a particular brand or model. Don't buy something just because it is low cost or on sale. Dean |
#5
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Beginner Equipment choices.
I've considered your questions and opinions... :-) Read on.
Before I start a little background: I'm moving to Colorado next month... I live in Illinois now What is your age? You do not need to answer in public. The reason for the question is to determine if you are still growing. You have to decide if you want to spend $400-$500 on a good board if your body will outgrow it in a year or two. I'm thirty. I haven't grown an inch since I was 18 Keep in mind that the hills in the midwest are not the same as the mountains in the west. I also live in the midwest, and we have short, groomed hills that usually have little variation in terrain from top to bottom. Understood. I've visited CO twice in the last three years and I'm well aquainted with the differences in terrain... However, I'm not buying for use in Illinois, I'm moving to Parker, Co in April!! (WOO!) I think I disagree with your statement, but I am not sure. It depends upon what you mean by "pro-level" board. There are multiple meanings and I do not know what you consider a "pro-level" board. You might mean a board specialized for a single type of boarding. Or perhaps you mean a board that uses the latest and most expensive technologies. Or maybe you mean something else. What I meant was, maybe a "pro" board would turn sharper and be too fast for me to learn on. That kind of thing. snip some educational stuff Do you know what type of boarding you want to do? If not, then starting with a multiple purpose board would probably be best. After a while you might want a board specialized for a particular type of boarding. If you plan to board under multiple conditions you might want multiple, specialized boards. For example, you might want to be a half pipe pro and also board in 3 foot deep powder. In general I think I'll be looking for an all-mountain kind of board for general riding, some small jumps and aggressive stuff later as I progress. Powder intrigues me but as yet I have no experience in it. Does the same go for boots? My logic says, 'no, buy a comfortable boot and binding combo and upgrade the board when it's time'. Get the best boots you can find that correspond with the type of boarding that you plan to do. How does one determine this? I recently upgraded my boots. I say that my new boots are an upgrade because they fit better. By "fit better" I do not mean they are more comfortable, I mean they have more adjustments for creating and keeping a snug fit while remaining comfortable and they have the amount of stiffness that I want. I bought them on sale, and they cost the same as my first pair, but they are much better (list $300, on sale for under $200). Care to let me in on what terrain you ride and what your equipment setup is? (I understand if you want to take this discussion to e-mail and avoid a possible "Brand-Xyz-sux-donkey-how-can-you-ride-that-crap?!" kind of situation). Thanks for the words. n. |
#6
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Beginner Equipment choices.
Nathan Otis wrote:
I'm thirty. I haven't grown an inch since I was 18 Understood. I've visited CO twice in the last three years and I'm well aquainted with the differences in terrain... However, I'm not buying for use in Illinois, I'm moving to Parker, Co in April!! (WOO!) Exactly. The boards sold by most stores in IL/WI are probably more suitable for the short, groomed hills and terrain parks of the midwest than the mountains of the west, and aimed at 15 year olds who want to slide over rails. Most are not all-mountain boards. Many are holdovers from previous years. This winter was good, and some stores sold nearly all merchandise. The previous years had little snow and stores were left with a lot of merchandise. Many purchased little new stock for 2003/2004. What I meant was, maybe a "pro" board would turn sharper and be too fast for me to learn on. That kind of thing. That should not be an issue. No matter what board you have the incline of the hill or the quality of the snow won't change. Get the best boots you can find that correspond with the type of boarding that you plan to do. How does one determine this? I recommend reading the FAQ and books and talking with others just as you are doing. There are some good books on the market that cover equipment, technique, lifts, etc. Care to let me in on what terrain you ride and what your equipment setup is? (I understand if you want to take this discussion to e-mail and avoid a possible "Brand-Xyz-sux-donkey-how-can-you-ride-that-crap?!" kind of situation). Briefly: I'm not an expert, meaning that I have not boarded big mountains, raced, jumped (very high :-), used a half pipe or used lots of different equipment brands. I've been to most resorts in Wisconsin and a few in Michigan. I'm 48. This was my second year of boarding. I never downhilled skied. I learned a lot this year and managed to get down some black diamond hills without wrecking myself or anyone else. I did zig when I should have zagged once and tumbled head-over-heels two or three times before stopping. It probably looked far worse than it was. I had no injuries, other than my dignity, and I simply popped back up after I stopped tumbling and continued down the hill. I wear a helmet. I took a lesson at a local hill. The instructor was a teenager who could board but had no clue how to teach, and the hill was icy. I rented equipment twice that was so bad I decided to buy my own. (The resort had exactly one pair of boots that fit me.) I didn't know a fraction of what I now know about equipment. Fortunately the sales people did a fairly good job, meaning they didn't try to sell me something that would not be anywhere near right for me. They were adults and boarders. I purchased equipment from two local stores. I got the board and bindings from one store and the boots from another because the first store didn't have boots that felt right. I read a couple of books, found a better hill and started having fun. Old Equipment - K2 Fatbob 158 board (wide board for my size 11.5 feet) (2000/2001 model I think. The store had it for a couple of years and slashed the price.) - Salomon Dialogue boots. Salomon fit my feet better than the other brands that I tried. However, that may not be the case for you because different people have differently shaped feet. - Flow FL-4 bindings. I hated the rental strap bindings. I spent more time buckling and unbuckling on the short hills than I did going down the hills. When I saw the Flow bindings I knew I had found the right thing for my situation. As the ads say, your mileage may vary. New Equipment - Giro Fuse helmet (has adjustable vents that open/close with a lever) - Donek Wide 161 board - Flow Pro 11 bindings - Salomon Malamute boots Why the Donek board? I'd read good things about it and wanted an all-mountain board, and I like small companies that do what they do very well and will provide personal service. Plus you can pick your own color and/or graphics. I had problems with quick edge-to-edge transitions. I say that based on what I saw others doing. Others could switch edges must faster than me. I figured it was either the board, my crappy knees or my technique. I've had the Donek for about a week and used it one day so far. It seemed much more responsive than the K2 and plowed through some situations that caused the K2 to bounce. I moved it with less effort then I used with the K2. The Donek is longer and slightly narrower than the K2. There are lots of boards. You should opportunities to demo several in CO compared to little to no opportunities in IL and WI. I don't like plain, straight hills. I like variable terrain, not just going fast. I like the G force from sharp turns. I'm at a lack for words to concisely describe it other than to say that I like to get off the beaten trail, which is pretty hard to do in my area. I got to board on 5" of fresh snow once this year, and loved it. All other times the groomers had packed the snow before I got on the hill. I've gone through terrain parks, but to zip around the features like a slalom course, not to go over them. One of the most interesting runs at Alpine Valley in WI, in my opinion, also happens to be the terrain park. The run winds through the woods rather than being a clearcut hill. Get a lock. The resort I visited on Sunday had a sign that said that 17 boards had been stolen so far this year. Dean |
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