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boots dilema
Hello!
I have a question concerning these boots: 1) Nordica Smartech 8 (flex 70) 2) Salomon Performa 6.0 (flex 80) 3) Salomon Evolution2 7.0 (flex 70) I have to choose one of them and I can't make up my minds. My feelings about comfort are similar and prices are the same. What would you choose if you were me? Greetings. Lukas |
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lal_truckee wrote:
NOTHING!?!?!? Looks like another instance of the dreaded "empty post!" Anyway, repeating myself ... £ukaszZa³uga wrote: Hello! I have a question concerning these boots: 1) Nordica Smartech 8 (flex 70) 2) Salomon Performa 6.0 (flex 80) 3) Salomon Evolution2 7.0 (flex 70) I have to choose one of them and I can't make up my minds. My feelings about comfort are similar and prices are the same. What would you choose if you were me? 1) Why do you "have to choose one of them" from such a limited selection? Sounds like you're getting jerked around by a poor shop into buying something they have on the shelf. DON'T. There is a very large selection of boot brands out there (often at much better equivalent prices than these two highly advertised two brands) that each fit a slightly different foot better. The boot process is: first find the brand line that fits your foot best; second find the model in that line that fits your skill level; third tweek the final selection to perfection. All the above is much easier with the aid of a good bootfitter (I'm tempted to say impossible for the newbie, without the aid of a good bootfitter.) Finally, forget gizmos such as walk settings, etc: all bull****. You don't walk in ski boots, you ski in ski boots. Get a properly designed 4 buckle plain vanilla boot. |
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On 2004-01-12, lal_truckee penned:
1) Why do you "have to choose one of them" from such a limited selection? Sounds like you're getting jerked around by a poor shop into buying something they have on the shelf. DON'T. There is a very large selection of boot brands out there (often at much better equivalent prices than these two highly advertised two brands) that each fit a slightly different foot better. The boot process is: first find the brand line that fits your foot best; second find the model in that line that fits your skill level; third tweek the final selection to perfection. All the above is much easier with the aid of a good bootfitter (I'm tempted to say impossible for the newbie, without the aid of a good bootfitter.) Finally, forget gizmos such as walk settings, etc: all bull****. You don't walk in ski boots, you ski in ski boots. Get a properly designed 4 buckle plain vanilla boot. I agree with all of the above, except that I do have to say that I love the "walk" setting on my boots. It's not a deal-breaker for me or anything, but it sure is nice to be able to straighten out my legs when clomping around the lodge, hoofing it back to the car, etc. -- monique |
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"Monique Y. Herman" wrote in message ... I agree with all of the above, except that I do have to say that I love the "walk" setting on my boots. It's not a deal-breaker for me or anything, but it sure is nice to be able to straighten out my legs when clomping around the lodge, hoofing it back to the car, etc. The walk feature is something you will use less and less as you ski on them more and more. Eventually you will find yourself walking spastically across the room unless you have your boots on -and locked in the ski position of course :-) By the way Monique did you get new boots or get the old ones reworked? F. Plant |
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On 2004-01-13, F. Plant penned:
"Monique Y. Herman" wrote in message ... I agree with all of the above, except that I do have to say that I love the "walk" setting on my boots. It's not a deal-breaker for me or anything, but it sure is nice to be able to straighten out my legs when clomping around the lodge, hoofing it back to the car, etc. The walk feature is something you will use less and less as you ski on them more and more. Eventually you will find yourself walking spastically across the room unless you have your boots on -and locked in the ski position of course :-) By the way Monique did you get new boots or get the old ones reworked? F. Plant I have lots of practice walking in ski boots prior to these boots. It's much easier to walk when your lower legs aren't being pushed forward into a half-crouch. As I said, it's not a deal breaker, but it's definitely nice to give my legs a break. About the boots: I still have the old boots. I had Surefoot punch out the toe once more. They are almost totally comfortable except that I have one toe that inevitably goes "painfully numb"* after 3-4 hours. I'm reluctant to get new boots; these are "mostly" there, and if I can't isolate the cause of the toe problem, who's to say the new ones won't have the same issue? Anyway, I think I've decided to stick with these, at least for this year. I think that frequent use has helped pack them down. I've heard a rumor that boot dryers, which I've used in the past but not this year, can pop the liners back to their original state -- that they rely on humidity to stay molded. No idea if there's any truth to that. In any case, if I haven't done it before then, I'll bring them by the Surefoot at Vail during my honeymoon. After all, they're the ones who sold me the boots. Eight days already -- hard to believe for an ex-pat Virginian! * "painfully numb" means that the toe aches, but the toe itself can't feel its surroundings; the big and middle toe feel its cold skin, but it doesn't reciprocate. When I remove the boot, I get a prolonged ache that makes me want to scream, presumably due to blood flowing back into the region. So *something* is causing this pressure. I've taken to leaving the lowest buckle undone (doesn't seem to change my degree of control) and have the second buckle on its loosest setting. The upper two buckles are as loose as I can set them while still feeling like I'm in the driver's seat. This isn't due to cold; it's been pretty warm on our ski days. It's also not isolated to skiing; I've noticed a similar numbing effect while mountain biking. So I'm guessing the problem is actually the constant pressure from the soles. Except that riding lifts with no foot-bars seems to hasten the process, so that would implicate pressure from the top. *sigh* -- monique |
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lal_truckee wrote:
lal_truckee wrote: Finally, forget gizmos such as walk settings, etc: all bull****. You don't walk in ski boots, you ski in ski boots. Get a properly designed 4 buckle plain vanilla boot. What about some other features like canting adjustment, flex adjustment, forward lean etc? Heat-molded footbeds? Heel lifts? Worthless gizmos, or useful features? Enquiring minds want to know.... -- //-Walt // // |
#8
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On 2004-01-12, Walt penned:
lal_truckee wrote: lal_truckee wrote: Finally, forget gizmos such as walk settings, etc: all bull****. You don't walk in ski boots, you ski in ski boots. Get a properly designed 4 buckle plain vanilla boot. What about some other features like canting adjustment, flex adjustment, forward lean etc? Heat-molded footbeds? Heel lifts? Worthless gizmos, or useful features? Enquiring minds want to know.... I have a little slider that is supposed to adjust the flex. It sucks. No matter where I set it, snow always packs into it and pushes it to the same setting. I have custom footbeds, and I really do like them. I've had them so long, though, that I can't remember what it was that they fixed. -- monique |
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Walt wrote:
lal_truckee wrote: lal_truckee wrote: Finally, forget gizmos such as walk settings, etc: all bull****. You don't walk in ski boots, you ski in ski boots. Get a properly designed 4 buckle plain vanilla boot. What about some other features like canting adjustment, flex adjustment, forward lean etc? Heat-molded footbeds? Heel lifts? Worthless gizmos, or useful features? Enquiring minds want to know.... You want opinions? I've got opinions. What I don't have is knowledge, so take my opinions with a bottle of good beer with which to wash the appropriate grain of salt down. The walk feature requires that they deliberately figure out how to remove rear support and then try to "latch" it back in - always results in a compromise, IMO. Think "rear entry" crapola boots. Think "mid-entry" crapola boots. Hell, think "soft" boots, the newest version of crapola "rear entry" boots. The canting adjustment feature doesn't adjust cant - it adjusts leg shaft angle - can be usefull, but true canting is better, IMO. Flex is part of the shell - an adjustment means the shell is inherently weak, and they will try to stiffen it by an adjustable spring somewhere near the heel, all the way around the boot from where the flex is applied (by the shin) - always results in a compromise IMO. (Each manufacturer makes several boots in a "race" line, mainly with different flexes. That's the way to go.) Forward lean feature depends on how it is achieved - no inherent lean, with a lock where you want the lean, results in a weak shell - see flex comments; inherent lean adjusted by shims can work well, IMO. Heat molded footbeds are excellent or crap: depends on who makes them; but they need to be part of the fitting process and not as after market, since they affect fit hugely. Heel lifts are often used in changing fit; maybe means the fit is wrong? Ask a bootfitter. |
#10
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Walt wrote in message ...
lal_truckee wrote: lal_truckee wrote: Finally, forget gizmos such as walk settings, etc: all bull****. You don't walk in ski boots, you ski in ski boots. Get a properly designed 4 buckle plain vanilla boot. What about some other features like canting adjustment, flex adjustment, forward lean etc? Heat-molded footbeds? Heel lifts? Worthless gizmos, or useful features? Enquiring minds want to know.... Those "gizmos" are only as good as the bootfitter who helps you set the boots up for effective skiing. |
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