Ski binding settings, do you trust DIN recommendations?

Ed Pauls wrote in message ...
Do the shop settings work for you? Personally Ihave never had a shop
setting work for me. The skis have always pre released when set to Din
standards. I consider this more dangerous than setting them to a number
that I know works for me. I check the binding operation by pushing the
boots out of the ski by hand to see that there is no catching in the
release system.
I also fine tune for different conditions, I will always tighten the
retention for a "death if you fall " situation and loosen them a little
for wet, heavy stuff.

Good Ol' Ed

I always find my bindings prereleasing because I race. I am sure that
my dins are unsafe now. Sometimes the pre-releasing is caused by the
binding design and not the din setting. Marker bindings for instance
are mot good in the moguls at all. A better binding is sometimes much
better for this. My tyroloia rac bindings with dins that go up to 17
will allow the boot to move 15 degrees out before they release.

To better answer the question what tyoe of bindings do you have and
what is your weight. I certainly agree with the fine tuning approach.
One thing to consider is that you are basically out of luck in a
binding malfuntction. So you had better be able to pay your own
medical bills and not try to sue the binding maker if some

Nope. I always move 'em up about 1 DIN point. As long as you
always go fast, they'll come off. I think ex-big dog racers
usually have them set to 15.

-Paul C.

Ed Pauls wrote:
: Do the shop settings work for you? Personally Ihave never had a shop
: setting work for me. The skis have always pre released when set to Din
: standards. I consider this more dangerous than setting them to a number
: that I know works for me. I check the binding operation by pushing the
: boots out of the ski by hand to see that there is no catching in the
: release system.
: I also fine tune for different conditions, I will always tighten the
: retention for a "death if you fall " situation and loosen them a little
: for wet, heavy stuff.

: Good Ol' Ed




: .

Do the shop settings work for you? Personally Ihave never had a shop
setting work for me. The skis have always pre released when set to Din
standards. I consider this more dangerous than setting them to a number
that I know works for me. I check the binding operation by pushing the
boots out of the ski by hand to see that there is no catching in the
release system.
I also fine tune for different conditions, I will always tighten the
retention for a "death if you fall " situation and loosen them a little
for wet, heavy stuff.

Good Ol' Ed




..

Paul Christofanelli wrote in message ...
Nope. I always move 'em up about 1 DIN point. As long as you
always go fast, they'll come off. I think ex-big dog racers
usually have them set to 15.

-Paul C.

Ed Pauls wrote:
: Do the shop settings work for you? Personally Ihave never had a shop
: setting work for me. The skis have always pre released when set to Din
: standards. I consider this more dangerous than setting them to a number
: that I know works for me. I check the binding operation by pushing the
: boots out of the ski by hand to see that there is no catching in the
: release system.
: I also fine tune for different conditions, I will always tighten the
: retention for a "death if you fall " situation and loosen them a little
: for wet, heavy stuff.

: Good Ol' Ed




: .

Just as a sidenote it is pretty hard to get a pair of bindings that go
over 14. You usually need to get them from the factory or a rep ect.

John wrote:
: Paul Christofanelli wrote in message ...
: Nope. I always move 'em up about 1 DIN point. As long as you
: always go fast, they'll come off. I think ex-big dog racers
: usually have them set to 15.
:
: -Paul C.
:
: Ed Pauls wrote:
: : Do the shop settings work for you? Personally Ihave never had a shop
: : setting work for me. The skis have always pre released when set to Din
: : standards. I consider this more dangerous than setting them to a number
: : that I know works for me. I check the binding operation by pushing the
: : boots out of the ski by hand to see that there is no catching in the
: : release system.
: : I also fine tune for different conditions, I will always tighten the
: : retention for a "death if you fall " situation and loosen them a little
: : for wet, heavy stuff.
:
: : Good Ol' Ed
:
:
: Just as a sidenote it is pretty hard to get a pair of bindings that go
: over 14. You usually need to get them from the factory or a rep ect.

That's funny. I originally wrote 14, because that's what I remember
this ex-US ski team dude has his set to. But then I thought "15",
ala Spinal Tap (or was that a different movie?).

-PC

"Paul Christofanelli" wrote in message
...
John wrote:
: Paul Christofanelli wrote in message
...
: Nope. I always move 'em up about 1 DIN point. As long as you
: always go fast, they'll come off. I think ex-big dog racers
: usually have them set to 15.
:
: -Paul C.
:
: Ed Pauls wrote:
: : Do the shop settings work for you? Personally Ihave never had a shop
: : setting work for me. The skis have always pre released when set to
Din
: : standards. I consider this more dangerous than setting them to a
number
: : that I know works for me. I check the binding operation by pushing
the
: : boots out of the ski by hand to see that there is no catching in the
: : release system.
: : I also fine tune for different conditions, I will always tighten the
: : retention for a "death if you fall " situation and loosen them a
little
: : for wet, heavy stuff.
:
: : Good Ol' Ed
:
:
: Just as a sidenote it is pretty hard to get a pair of bindings that go
: over 14. You usually need to get them from the factory or a rep ect.

That's funny. I originally wrote 14, because that's what I remember
this ex-US ski team dude has his set to. But then I thought "15",
ala Spinal Tap (or was that a different movie?).

11.

Richard Henry wrote:

: "Paul Christofanelli" wrote in message
: That's funny. I originally wrote 14, because that's what I remember
: this ex-US ski team dude has his set to. But then I thought "15",
: ala Spinal Tap (or was that a different movie?).
:
: 11.

It was "This is Spinal Tap", right? (I know in the movie it was "11", one
beyond the normal maximum).

-PC

Ed Pauls wrote in message ...
Do the shop settings work for you?

I'm a sloppy skiier so I always crank the shop settings up by 2, then
crash a few times to see if I like when they release, and then
increase 'em some more. Once I find the point of pain in binding
release, I come back half a DIN.

No pre-releases. No season-ending injuries either, because I am an
expert in eating **** when I have a yard sale.

Someday I will probably pay the price, but in the meantime I never
pre-release and when my skis need to come off, they REALLY need to
come off. Like when I arrive at the bar.

In article ,
(morrison427) writes:
Ed Pauls wrote in message ...
Do the shop settings work for you?

They do for me (now). They didn't 15 years ago. Could be better binding
technology, or better technique, or a mixture of both.

bruno.

Ed Pauls wrote:

Do the shop settings work for you?

I think it depends on skiing style. If a skier's style induces regular
lateral pressure components, then the recommended DIN may not provide
the retention that skier desires. If a skier's style is more precise and
centered, there is really very little lateral component imparted to the
binding. A precise skier pressures directly down through the ski to the
edges at all times, without perceptable sideways forces. Racing stress
levels provide impulsive sideways thrust from high-speed rut impacts,
etc, and higher DIN is required. Civilian skiers impart sideways thrust
by being imprecise, mis-centered in balance, and sideslippage while skiing.

I usually end up setting right at recommended (of course, I claim type
III skier, and lower my age a decade, to get that original recommended
level.) Seems to work.

A final point - impulse release: Slow twisting falls are more dangerous
than high-speed impact falls as far as knees are concerned. Bindings
behave the opposite - they release easier at high impulse force than in
slow twists. So where a DIN 16 will release when you crash your DH
boards at 65mph, you'd tear your knee up doing the same at 20mph. If
slow twisting falls are more of a hazard for the skier than race speed
crashes, keeping the DIN as low as will provide reasonable retention is
probably a good idea.