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Old December 25th 10, 04:23 PM posted to rec.skiing.nordic
Edgar[_2_]
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Default temporary wax for waxless skis when all stores are closed?

On Dec 25, 6:40*am, Meg wrote:
So I guess I have 2 problems. *I need glide wax, and also the snow is
sticking to the kick zone.

Can the same product be used to solve both problems.

The stores ARE open tomorrow - I was wrong when I said Monday.
Locally, it appears these are my two options other than makeshift
solutions. Anything I'm likely to find locally are going to be either
for snowboards or downhill skis as you can't buy cross country skis
here.

This universal temperature wax by swix is at rei.

http://www.rei.com/product/777576

Or this soy based wax at the other store that sells ski supplies.

http://www.alpineshop.com/products2....ome-Grown-Soy-...

Am I better off just waiting until tomorrow and getting one of these
to use on the whole ski and ordering something online more
specifically for cross country skis for the future?


Hi,
The "no-wax" skis as you have discovered mean "no grip (kick) wax"
skis. At +/- 0C and high humidity snow conditions, you need to make
the ski bases, especially the grip pattern area more water repellent.
As someone mentioned, silicone spay can be a short term quick fix.
The longer lasting fix to icing is to fill the "pores" (not really
pores, but its a complicated story) so that moisture does not stick to
the ski bases.

Various "wax" compounds such as the Swix F4 liquid or paste previously
mentioned, or the Toko express wax liquid or past products increase
the water resistance of the base. To make these products longer
lasting, the first step is to apply them to dry skis so that the
penetrate the "pores". Adding some heat (inside and overnight, and/or
using a hair drier with warm air) helps the wax compound penetrate.

The reason that liquid or paste products work best on "no-wax" ski
grip zones is that a solid iron-in wax is hard to scrape from the
patterned area of the ski. Filling in the mechanical ridges reduces
its ability to interlock with the snow. And you wax works by
"penetrating" into the base, not covering the base, That's why we
scrape and brush the glide zones to remove the surface wax.

Summary. Use a liquid or paste wax, applied to a dry ski with time to
let it absorb into the base. Buff and polish to remove the material
from the surface and especially from the pattern. And yes, hot wax
the tip and tail glide zones. The Universal hot wax will work for
your tip and tail sections.

Edgar
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