Terry Hill wrote:

If anybody could help me out with this, I would appreciate it. I have an old
pair of downhill skis that I picked up recently that seemed pretty good, and
were the right size for me, but they had old bindings on them. I was thinking
that they would make a great second pair of skis for spring skiing or for use
on days when conditions are less than optimal. Anyway, I bought a pair of
Solomon 637 bindings on eBay, and I want to install them myself, but since I
have never done it before, I need a few tips. My plan is to put them on myself
and then take the skis in for a tune-up and binding adjustment. I understand
that you have to find the ski balance point with a straightedge, and I do have
the right mounting screws, as they came with the bindings, and I know that you
have to fill the screw holes with epoxy glue. What I don't know is where
exactly do I position the bindings for mounting? How do I know how far apart
to put the bindings? Do I just hold the bindings up against the boot, or what?
And do I balance the ski with the boot in place? Any tips would be greatly
appreciated

I'm sorry to say that most of what you "know" is wrong.

First, Salomon 637s are old; they don't appear on the 2002-2003 bindings
indemnification lists, so they certainly didn't reappear on the current
lists (the Salomon x57 series bindings are the oldest bindings Salomon
indemnified in 2002-3.)

Second, Alpine skis almost all have a boot toe mark on the ski; some
have a boot sole center mark on the ski. The boots have a mount point
molded into the sole. Up to you to know which type of mark. If no mark,
you find the mount mount by either the running surface method of the
cord method (look them up in a good ski mechanic's book.)

Third you use wood glue, not epoxy in the screw holes - it's only for
sealing against moisture, not for retention - you want to be able to
remove the screws eventually.

How far apart to mount toe/heel bindings depends on the range of binding
heel adjustment (usually center the heel in its track, unless you have
special requirements) and pre-load travel distance requirements. Then
you just center-line the bindings, drill (and tap, if there's a metal
top-skin on the ski,) without punching through the base, but deep enough
the screw doesn't dimple the base, lube with wood glue, and screw down
to torque specs. Mount the second ski identical to the first.

Then, of course, you adjust to boots for proper pre-load, set the
release to DIN standards, and fully test both release torque and
function, discarding the bindings if they fall out of spec bounds.