I took a few runs once on my brother's identical setup -- heavy, but
impressive!

I heard these are a nice ski, and I do a lot more heli then touring
right now, but am trying to get in good enough shape to survive the
unassisted ascents.

Anyway, ignore the boot size (i.e., 26.0/26.5) and instead go by the
boot sole length (i.e., 30.5cm/305mm).

Yes, that makes sense now.

You might want to skip all the other alignment methods and just match
up the ball of your foot with the middle of the ski’s contact
length - hard to measure, but it’s what every other technique is
trying to simulate.

Not sure what the #8217;s is but my guess is to find the chord centre
of the radius that provides the ski's camber. I placed my skis on a
flat surface and with a strong light I could accurately determine
where the main arc of the ski intersected with the tip and tail radii.
I measured the straight line distance of this chord, bisected it and
marked that point on the skis. Next I positioned my foot on the ski
with the ball of my foot directly over this mark, and marked my toe
and heel positions. Halfway between these 2 marks I drew the
approximate foot centre and it aligned almost perfectly with the
factory marking. Eureka!

So all of your advice re the factory marking is right on the
money...many thanks!

A few more details are left for me to sort out though:

1. Instruction say to not bend the ski while drilling the holes. I
sort of think the ski should be clamped flat while I position under my
drill press.

2. Have read lots about the virtues of epoxy and white waterproof
glues. No mention of the latest polyurethanes, are these suitable?

3. Are my Dynastar's a foam core? Not sure I really need to know
this ahead of time but was curious.

Thanks.

Craig