Glue for Swix pole handles ?
 

Anyone got a recommendation for glue to fix the handles back onto a set of
Swix Mountain poles ? These are plain aluminium poles with a sued-like grip
(may be synthetic) over an under-grip.

Its a long story about post office loosing poles, but the result is that I
have a set which are too long and no options for a set the correct length
from the supplier. The supplying shop has recommended removing the handles
by immersion in very hot water to soften the glue, then cutting pole down
with a pipe cutter. All stuff I can do technically.

But, what to stick them back with ? The shop hasn't been totally helpful
(suspect that adhesive technology might not be a strong point) and suggested
things including PVA wood glue, Cynoacrylics (superglue), Epoxy resin
(araldite). These are all somewhat different adhesives.

Anyone know what one should use before I start the operation ?

I'll see if Swix respond to an email enquiry about glue.



- Nigel



--
Nigel Cliffe,
Webmaster at http://www.2mm.org.uk/

Nigel Cliffe wrote:
: But, what to stick them back with ? The shop hasn't been totally helpful
: (suspect that adhesive technology might not be a strong point) and suggested
: things including PVA wood glue, Cynoacrylics (superglue), Epoxy resin
: (araldite). These are all somewhat different adhesives.

there's stuff called gorilla glue that will do the job, that's a brand
name. 1 part wood glue (PVA? dunno.) that's waterproof. or go with the
2part epoxy resin. the superglue i think you'll find becomes brittle, and
will give out in he cold.

Matt wrote:
Nigel Cliffe wrote:
: But, what to stick them back with ? The shop hasn't been totally helpful
: (suspect that adhesive technology might not be a strong point) and suggested
: things including PVA wood glue, Cynoacrylics (superglue), Epoxy resin
: (araldite). These are all somewhat different adhesives.

there's stuff called gorilla glue that will do the job, that's a brand
name. 1 part wood glue (PVA? dunno.) that's waterproof. or go with the
2part epoxy resin. the superglue i think you'll find becomes brittle, and
will give out in he cold.

I would also highly recommend Gorilla Glue but:
be aware that the stuff expands as it hardens.
Yes, hardens. It's basically a two-part mixture
like epoxy, the basis is urethane and the second
part of the mixture is moisture in the air. For
that reason buy the smallest quantity that you
can because shelf-life is limited after opening.

If the stuff squeezes out, the only way to clean
it off after hardening is by cutting or grinding.
There is no solvent for the hardened stuff. That,
of course, is why it is so great. Also, it stays
somewhat flexible after hardening. Good for
retreading sandals and the like.

If the handle can be unbonded by heat (i.e. hot water), it is probably
glued using ferrule cement or glue. Pole ferrule glue is applied by
heating the glue and applying to the stick. Replace the grip, properly
positioned, before it hardens as it cools. Same process for replacing
backet/ferrules. A full service ski shop should have furrule glue.

To remove, heat as you have been instructed, You do not need to add
new glue except where you cut the glued section of the stick off.

Edgar

We cut poles down all the time, and don't use glue. The handle is tight
and usually stays on fine. If, when your done and the handle is loose,
take it back off and use epoxy...

[ ]

We cut poles down all the time, and don't use glue. The handle is tight
and usually stays on fine. If, when your done and the handle is loose,
take it back off and use epoxy...

The plastic handle on normal alpine poles doesn't need glue, but I
suspect it might be different for the leather handles in question.


Martin
--
"An ideal world is left as an exercise to the reader."
-Paul Graham, On Lisp

-2turn wrote:
We cut poles down all the time, and don't use glue. The handle is tight
and usually stays on fine. If, when your done and the handle is loose,
take it back off and use epoxy...


Tony,
You're right about downhill ski poles. This poster
noted that the grips were already glued on and I
suspect that the poles are cross country poles with
leather (real or faux) grips like old time poles.

The poles are by Swix and this is RSB, not RSA.
RW

Edgar wrote:
If the handle can be unbonded by heat (i.e. hot water), it is probably
glued using ferrule cement or glue. Pole ferrule glue is applied by
heating the glue and applying to the stick. Replace the grip,
properly positioned, before it hardens as it cools. Same process for
replacing backet/ferrules. A full service ski shop should have
furrule glue.

Thanks. Only problem is ski shop. I live where it doesn't snow, so the
only ski shops are when I travel away to snowy areas.

I think the rest of the thread is starting to get me to an answer.


To remove, heat as you have been instructed, You do not need to add
new glue except where you cut the glued section of the stick off.



--
Nigel Cliffe,
Webmaster at http://www.2mm.org.uk/

VtSkier wrote:
-2turn wrote:
We cut poles down all the time, and don't use glue. The handle is
tight and usually stays on fine. If, when your done and the handle
is loose, take it back off and use epoxy...


Tony,
You're right about downhill ski poles. This poster
noted that the grips were already glued on and I
suspect that the poles are cross country poles with
leather (real or faux) grips like old time poles.

Yes, sorry if not clear.
These are cross-country poles, leather (sued, not sure if real) grips.


The poles are by Swix and this is RSB, not RSA.
RW




--
Nigel Cliffe,
Webmaster at http://www.2mm.org.uk/

VtSkier wrote:
Matt wrote:
Nigel Cliffe wrote:
But, what to stick them back with ? The shop hasn't been totally
helpful (suspect that adhesive technology might not be a strong
point) and suggested things including PVA wood glue, Cynoacrylics
(superglue), Epoxy resin (araldite). These are all somewhat
different adhesives.

there's stuff called gorilla glue that will do the job, that's a
brand name. 1 part wood glue (PVA? dunno.) that's waterproof. or
go with the 2part epoxy resin. the superglue i think you'll find
becomes brittle, and will give out in he cold.

I would also highly recommend Gorilla Glue but:
be aware that the stuff expands as it hardens.
Yes, hardens. It's basically a two-part mixture
like epoxy, the basis is urethane and the second
part of the mixture is moisture in the air. For
that reason buy the smallest quantity that you
can because shelf-life is limited after opening.

If the stuff squeezes out, the only way to clean
it off after hardening is by cutting or grinding.
There is no solvent for the hardened stuff. That,
of course, is why it is so great. Also, it stays
somewhat flexible after hardening. Good for
retreading sandals and the like.



Thanks. Sounds a possible, but with a "use only a tiny amount" caution.


- Nigel




--
Nigel Cliffe,
Webmaster at http://www.2mm.org.uk/