Snow and ski - Rub On Pure Fluros-Whats Up With The Dry Gray Look?

SkiBanter (http://www.skibanter.com/index.php)

- Nordic Skiing (http://www.skibanter.com/forumdisplay.php?f=4)

- - Rub On Pure Fluros-Whats Up With The Dry Gray Look? (http://www.skibanter.com/showthread.php?t=9841)

Rub On Pure Fluros-Whats Up With The Dry Gray Look?

I just bought some Solda Power Jet 1 and after ironing it on, or
rubbing it on then corking, I 'm getting this very dry gray look to the
base. After skiing it is even worse taking on the characteristics of a
really thirsty base. When ironing I make 1-2 quick passes, then cork,
brush, and polish. The rub on method I use is the same without the
ironing step. The skis are deathly slow with no release. I'm trying
figure what all the hype of pure fluro is. Has anyone else had
experience such as this? The skis have a recent quality stone grind, so
I'm ruling out a sealed base. Moreover, the quick pass of the iron at
medium heat isn't sealing the base. Any thought would be appreciated.
Finally, I would get the same results from Swix Cera F.

i thought fluoro did not melt so why iron it on?
(BTW i am not being a smart-ass i honestly do not know).

Actually it does melt. Torbjorn Sports recommends the two passes of the
iron and then to lightly scrap, brush, and polish.
wintermutt wrote:
i thought fluoro did not melt so why iron it on?
(BTW i am not being a smart-ass i honestly do not know).

I am a Solda user and have had very good luck with their products. I
know on the TorbjornSport site they talk about heating in Powerjet, but
I have rarely done this. My technique, not an endorsement but just what
seems to work for me, is crayon on, cork the daylights out of it (I use
a rotocork) very light brush with horsehair, polish with polishing pad
(I use toko), brush with finishing nylon. I have done this for races up
to 30K with no real loss of glide. Have done two layers with PJ if I am
worried about durability. If you get Nat Brown's newsletter from
ultratune, he almost exclusively corks pure fluoro and gives good
reason for it. Could it be that you are not brushing enough? You still
have to get the residual out of the structure.

If you are going to heat it in, I have seen people use a piece of
fiberlene over the iron to avoid damaging the bases and to keep the
fluoro "pure". Don't have nay experience with this.

I would not give up on the Powerjet line. It is one of the most
economical ways to get fluoro into you skis.

Swix now has video on their site that shows various ways of applying
and brushing pure fluoros. The web address is:

www.swixschool.no/web/index2.html.webloc

Dan Vargo
SLC, UT

In article om,
wrote:

I just bought some Solda Power Jet 1 and after ironing it on, or
rubbing it on then corking, I 'm getting this very dry gray look to the
base. After skiing it is even worse taking on the characteristics of a
really thirsty base. When ironing I make 1-2 quick passes, then cork,
brush, and polish. The rub on method I use is the same without the
ironing step. The skis are deathly slow with no release. I'm trying
figure what all the hype of pure fluro is. Has anyone else had
experience such as this? The skis have a recent quality stone grind, so
I'm ruling out a sealed base. Moreover, the quick pass of the iron at
medium heat isn't sealing the base. Any thought would be appreciated.
Finally, I would get the same results from Swix Cera F.

On Thu, 17 Mar 2005, Daniel Vargo wrote:

I am a Solda user and have had very good luck with their products. I
know on the TorbjornSport site they talk about heating in Powerjet, but
I have rarely done this. My technique, not an endorsement but just what
seems to work for me, is crayon on, cork the daylights out of it (I use
a rotocork) very light brush with horsehair, polish with polishing pad
(I use toko), brush with finishing nylon.

If you are rotocorking the daylights out of it, you are heating it in.

If you are going to heat it in, I have seen people use a piece of
fiberlene over the iron to avoid damaging the bases and to keep the
fluoro "pure". Don't have nay experience with this.

I don't understand how a piece of fiberlene is going to protect the
base from being overheated.

-Mitch

Agree that rotocork does heat it in, but it just feels safer. Also, I
agree with the fibertex. Not giving it approval but just mentioning it
as something I have seen.

Another thought is the mixing of wax in the underlayer. Need to make
sure that is completely brushed out.

Dan Vargo

In article l.edu,
Mitch Collinsworth wrote:

On Thu, 17 Mar 2005, Daniel Vargo wrote:

I am a Solda user and have had very good luck with their products. I
know on the TorbjornSport site they talk about heating in Powerjet, but
I have rarely done this. My technique, not an endorsement but just what
seems to work for me, is crayon on, cork the daylights out of it (I use
a rotocork) very light brush with horsehair, polish with polishing pad
(I use toko), brush with finishing nylon.

If you are rotocorking the daylights out of it, you are heating it in.

If you are going to heat it in, I have seen people use a piece of
fiberlene over the iron to avoid damaging the bases and to keep the
fluoro "pure". Don't have nay experience with this.

I don't understand how a piece of fiberlene is going to protect the
base from being overheated.

-Mitch

Daniel Vargo wrote:

Agree that rotocork does heat it in, but it just feels safer.

And gives you as good a durability as ironing.

OTOH durability, too, depends on how well you=B4ve done the layers under
the fluor.

FWIW the two lessons I=B4ve had rubbed in a

(1) You cannot save a bad wax job by any amount of fluor.
(2) You must remember to brush, brush, brush.

Also, I agree with the fibertex. Not giving it approval but just
mentioning it as something I have seen.

Haven=B4t seen it done, but the recommendation can be found at
http://www.soldacanada.com

Another thought is the mixing of wax in the underlayer. Need to make
sure that is completely brushed out.

Excellent application of rules (1) and (2)!

Anders