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-   -   Do I need a wide board? (http://www.skibanter.com/showthread.php?t=7144)

JD December 24th 04 03:40 PM

Do I need a wide board?
 
I'm in the process of buying my first board. I already bought a pair
of size 10 Flow Apex boots and a set of Large Flow Pro 11-FR bindings.

5'7"
weight averages 160-165

I was interested in the Burton Clash for my first board, but their
specs say it only takes a Medium binding so I've removed it from
consideration.

If I'm getting a wide board, I'm looking into a 156 Burton Canyon or
maybe a Gnu High Carbon (157W).

From what I've read, you sacrifice some maneuverability with the wider

board but they handle pow better. If I don't have to get a wide board,
I'd rather not, since I'd rather have the maneuverability, but if a
wide board is more suited to my size, I'm all for it.

Any input?


JD December 24th 04 04:09 PM

Do you think that size 10 boots and Large bindings (the size
recommended for size 10 boots) warrants a sharp stance or elevators on
a standard width board? Or am I definitely in wide board territory?

Does anyone know the minimum waist width I should look for in a board
to handle the Large Pro 11-FR bindings with a size 10 boot in them?
Thanks...


JD December 24th 04 06:50 PM

One reason I'm considering a wide is due to the large bindings. The
Burton Clash is really the board I'm interested in, but their specs
list the 158 as only taking a Medium binding and I have Large Flow Pro
11-FR bindings, but that's the board size I need. So I started looking
at the Canyon as a step up, and it's a wide and therefore takes a Large
binding.

This will be my first board, and I've only spent the last two ski
vacations snowboarding, but know that this is the direction I want to
go and am getting my own gear this year.

So do you think there won't be a problem with the Large bindings on the
Clash regardless of their posted specifications?

The other reason I was considering a wide is that I work out and
therefore carry more weight at 5'7"/165lbs than most and was wondering
if a wide would suit my heavier frame more than a standard...

No idea if I'm over-analyzing, but I just want to make the right
decision.


lonerider December 24th 04 07:57 PM

JD wrote:
One reason I'm considering a wide is due to the large bindings. The
Burton Clash is really the board I'm interested in, but their specs
list the 158 as only taking a Medium binding and I have Large Flow

Pro
11-FR bindings, but that's the board size I need. So I started

looking
at the Canyon as a step up, and it's a wide and therefore takes a

Large
binding.

[cut]

So do you think there won't be a problem with the Large bindings on

the
Clash regardless of their posted specifications?


Nice boots and binding choices (I've recently heard good things about
the FR-11). First realize that the weight range and binding sizes are
recommendation by Burton, and aren't set in stone. The reason why they
don't want to people to ride large bindings with big feet is because
it's bad to have your boots/bindings significantly hang over the board
edge. Too much overhang (more than an cm or two) and you will get
binding/boot drag when you tip over the board too much and will cause
you to lowside crash. Size 10 feet aren't huge, so you might be able to
get away with them on a non-Wide board with higher angles. I tried the
Palmer Riser plates and didn't like how to changed the flex of the
board.

The easiest way to tell if the board is too narrow is to bring your
boots and bindings into the store and mount them onto the board. Then
tip the board over while flexing it to see how far you can tip over the
board before the boot/binding touches the ground. You should be able to
get at least 60 degrees of tilt. Here are some photos from when I did
it:

http://www.catek.com/forum/download....39/fs_0182.jpg
http://www.catek.com/forum/download....40/hs_0181.jpg

The other reason I was considering a wide is that I work out and
therefore carry more weight at 5'7"/165lbs than most and was

wondering
if a wide would suit my heavier frame more than a standard...


Just wondering why you are so interested in the Clash? Have you ridden
it before and like it? My thought is that the Clash is a very soft
board (even for a Burton) and you are on the high end of the suggested
weight range. Those weight ranges are not set in stone, but they are a
good indicator of the relative stiffness of the board compared to other
Burton boards as your can see the Custom and the Canyon can accomodate
heavier riders at the same board lengths and so are probably stiffer.
So if you really want to get a Clash, I would suggest the 161 because
it is a little wider (can take Large bindings) AND it's stiffer for
your heavier, muscular frame. Otherwise the Canyon 156/163 probably
would work.

As you mentioned, wider boards are a little less manueverable because
it takes longer to tilt the board from edge to edge. They do float in
powder better though. I'm never ridden a Wide so I can't tell you how
much of a difference it makes (it also depends a lot on the
boardmaker).

--Arvin


[email protected] December 25th 04 02:15 PM

I don;t think size 10 boots should be a problem on most regular boards.
I wear a 10.5 and have had no problems on Sims or my Burton Custom.
It's normal for the boots to hang over by maybe a 1/2 inch or so. And
it also depends on your stance angle. As was suggested, try taking the
boots and bindings and see how they work on the actual board you're
trying to buy.


Rick Wilson December 25th 04 06:47 PM

wrote:
I don;t think size 10 boots should be a problem on most regular boards.
I wear a 10.5 and have had no problems on Sims or my Burton Custom.
It's normal for the boots to hang over by maybe a 1/2 inch or so. And
it also depends on your stance angle. As was suggested, try taking the
boots and bindings and see how they work on the actual board you're
trying to buy.


My freeride board (an old Joyride 165) is not a wide and I ride with
size 12 Nidecker boots and size large Flux bindings. So far no issues
with my angles at +15/-6. I can still get a 90 degree angle to surface
without any toe/hell drag. I'd say that size 10 boots shouldn't be a
problem on a regular width board at all.

Rick

Mike T December 26th 04 12:44 AM

It's normal for the boots to hang over by maybe a 1/2 inch or so. And
it also depends on your stance angle. As was suggested, try taking the
boots and bindings and see how they work on the actual board you're
trying to buy.


All good advice...

... I *would* be very surprised to see size 10's hang over the edge by
anything close to half an inch on a "normal" width board, that is between 24
and 25 cm at the waist. IMHO the ideal overhang for a reasonably advanced
rider is generally 3/8" - 3/4". Beginners and intermediates who don't tip
the board much on edge can get way with more, as can someone who uses
risers. I personally have size 8 Salomon boots and using a 26 cm waited
board (wide, but not *that* wide) gets me 3/8" overhang at all corners.

What's interesting is how many people say "1/2" overhang is best" and then
you present them with a board / boot combo that yields 1/2" overhang on all
4 corners and that say "that board is too wide".

Sorry if I am confusing the issue, but it is a confusing issue :)

In any case the "put it all together at the store and get it up on edge"
method is what I recommend, if it is feasible to do so.

Mike T



JD December 26th 04 03:36 AM

Thanks for the input from everyone...very helpful.


Dmitry December 27th 04 07:33 PM


"Mike T" wrote

.. I *would* be very surprised to see size 10's hang over the edge by anything close to half an inch on a "normal" width board,
that is between 24 and 25 cm at the waist. IMHO the ideal overhang for a reasonably advanced rider is generally 3/8" - 3/4".
Beginners and intermediates who don't tip the board much on edge can get way with more, as can someone who uses risers. I
personally have size 8 Salomon boots and using a 26 cm waited board (wide, but not *that* wide) gets me 3/8" overhang at all
corners.


Yeah, but the snow is soft so sometimes the board sinks more and you still
get some drag. I like a slightly wider board (25.5-26) even with 9.5 shoe
size just because on really steep terrain and on certain type of snow (a couple
of inches of tracked but soft surface) I still get heel and toe drag. Heel
drag is the worst, and it also might happen because of the heel cup of the
binding (e.g. Salomon SPX binding base is very wide in the heel).

I hated it when on numerous occasions I wanted to start a heel-side carve
as agressively as possible on a steep slope. Transfer a lot of weight
forward, put the board on a really high angle, press the front - it bites
hard, and oops - you fly over the handlebars because the front leg's heel dug
in and did not allow you to pull the board forward. Yuck! Tumbles like that
on steeps can be dangerous.




Mike T December 27th 04 07:48 PM

.. I *would* be very surprised to see size 10's hang over the edge by
anything close to half an inch on a "normal" width board, that is between
24 and 25 cm at the waist. IMHO the ideal overhang for a reasonably
advanced rider is generally 3/8" - 3/4".


Clarification - I would be surprised to see size 10's hang over by *as
little as* half an inch on a 24-25 cm waited board. I would expect it to
be an inch or more.

Mike T




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