Toko riller bar question
 

Hi,

The Toko riller that comes with two bars comes with the following
description:

Toko Nordic Structurite 2 Riller
Same as the Toko Nordic Structurite 4 Riller but with only two rill bars.
Comes with one coarse transverse/broken bar and one fine transverse/broken
bar.

Question: Is the fine transverse/broken bar the best for cold conditions?
Or is it a straight fine linear bar?

(Here's the description of the bars in the 4 bar riller from Toko: The four
bars a coarse linear, fine linear, coarse transverse/broken and fine
transverse/broken. The linear bars make straight rills (good for reducing
excess water film) while the transverse make a "broken" pattern (good for
breaking suction). Use the fine bar structures when the snow structure is
well defined (i.e. cold, fresh snow), and the coarse bar structures when the
snow structure is aged or soft (i.e. corn snow). )

Thanks,

Brian

Toko riller bar question
 

Brian,

The Toko riller is a great tool to add structure to your ski base. It
doesn't cut the base like the Swix tool and the pressed-in Toko
structure will lift out in a hot waxing or two.

To answer your question, if it is a cold dry snow you don't want more
structure. In fact the universal structure that comes on factory skis
may be too much structure for best glide. This often the case for Nov-
Feb here in cold-dry Colorado. As with ski wax, structuring your base
is a learned skill. Use Toko's recommendations as a starting point
http://www.tokous.com/racewaxtips.htm Do different things to each
ski in a pair and go for a ski. Afterwards note the temp/RH (hi or
low)/snow crystals and which wax/structure worked best. You'll get a
good idea of what to use when pretty quickly, though you will continue
to learn for years.

Good wax and good structure is good enough! Perfect wax/structure is
an elusive fairy tale for the World Cup techs to chase. Fitness and
technique trumps all that base prep stuff.

Toko riller bar question
 

Gunde,

Thanks for the input. There's always something to learn.

You mentioned the factory grind. I guess that was the crux of my question.
Will that Toko bar give me a better cold structure than the factory grind?

Off to the Toko website.

Brian



"Gunde" wrote in message
...
Brian,

The Toko riller is a great tool to add structure to your ski base. It
doesn't cut the base like the Swix tool and the pressed-in Toko
structure will lift out in a hot waxing or two.

To answer your question, if it is a cold dry snow you don't want more
structure. In fact the universal structure that comes on factory skis
may be too much structure for best glide. This often the case for Nov-
Feb here in cold-dry Colorado. As with ski wax, structuring your base
is a learned skill. Use Toko's recommendations as a starting point
http://www.tokous.com/racewaxtips.htm Do different things to each
ski in a pair and go for a ski. Afterwards note the temp/RH (hi or
low)/snow crystals and which wax/structure worked best. You'll get a
good idea of what to use when pretty quickly, though you will continue
to learn for years.

Good wax and good structure is good enough! Perfect wax/structure is
an elusive fairy tale for the World Cup techs to chase. Fitness and
technique trumps all that base prep stuff.

Toko riller bar question
 

Unlikely, but it depends on your factory grind. "Warm" skis have a
warmer weather grind, which is coarser but it depends on the factory
for what that means. Have a shop take a look if you don't know how to
recognize it. The Toko tools are going to be coarser than anything you
want for cold weather; i.e., Toko's 'fine' is relative to its coarse
rill.

"Brian Pauley" wrote:

Gunde,

Thanks for the input. There's always something to learn.

You mentioned the factory grind. I guess that was the crux of my question.
Will that Toko bar give me a better cold structure than the factory grind?

Off to the Toko website.

Brian



"Gunde" wrote in message
...
Brian,

The Toko riller is a great tool to add structure to your ski base. It
doesn't cut the base like the Swix tool and the pressed-in Toko
structure will lift out in a hot waxing or two.

To answer your question, if it is a cold dry snow you don't want more
structure. In fact the universal structure that comes on factory skis
may be too much structure for best glide. This often the case for Nov-
Feb here in cold-dry Colorado. As with ski wax, structuring your base
is a learned skill. Use Toko's recommendations as a starting point
http://www.tokous.com/racewaxtips.htm Do different things to each
ski in a pair and go for a ski. Afterwards note the temp/RH (hi or
low)/snow crystals and which wax/structure worked best. You'll get a
good idea of what to use when pretty quickly, though you will continue
to learn for years.

Good wax and good structure is good enough! Perfect wax/structure is
an elusive fairy tale for the World Cup techs to chase. Fitness and
technique trumps all that base prep stuff.

Toko riller bar question
 

"Brian Pauley" wrote:
Gunde,

Thanks for the input. *There's always something to learn.

You mentioned the factory grind. *I guess that was the crux of my question.
Will that Toko bar give me a better cold structure than the factory grind?

Off to the Toko website.

Brian

Brian, the Toko tool will only add structure, so you typically
wouldn't want to use it if it is cold and dry. This tool is for moist
warm snow. Let us know what you learn as you use it.

Toko riller bar question
 

I learned that this tool makes ROCKETS of my skis in combination with CERA F
and some wet, rained on snow ... I mean, I beat people I had no hope of
normally beating. Ha ! Take that !! ;)

JKal.

"Gunde" wrote in message
...
"Brian Pauley" wrote:
Gunde,

Thanks for the input. There's always something to learn.

You mentioned the factory grind. I guess that was the crux of my
question.
Will that Toko bar give me a better cold structure than the factory
grind?

Off to the Toko website.

Brian

Brian, the Toko tool will only add structure, so you typically
wouldn't want to use it if it is cold and dry. This tool is for moist
warm snow. Let us know what you learn as you use it.

Toko riller bar question
 

On Jan 23, 8:42*am, "Brian Pauley" wrote:
Hi,

The Toko riller that comes with two bars comes with the following
description:

Toko Nordic Structurite 2 Riller
Same as the Toko Nordic Structurite 4 Riller but with only two rill bars.
Comes with one coarse transverse/broken bar and one fine transverse/broken
bar.

Question: *Is the fine transverse/broken bar the best for cold conditions?
Or is it a straight fine linear bar?

(Here's the description of the bars in the 4 bar riller from Toko: *The four
bars a coarse linear, fine linear, coarse transverse/broken and fine
transverse/broken. The linear bars make straight rills (good for reducing
excess water film) while the transverse make a "broken" pattern (good for
breaking suction). Use the fine bar structures when the snow structure is
well defined (i.e. cold, fresh snow), and the coarse bar structures when the
snow structure is aged or soft (i.e. corn snow). )

Thanks,

Brian

To be clear - only use the riller in warm weather - 27degrees. and
only in wet snow.

I have this riller and only use the transverse/broken pattern, use the
coarse one when it's raining.

Another note - don't butcher the front of the ski with the riller.
The riller will fix problems that occur predominately the back part of
the ski. So don't put much pressure on the riller near the tip of the
ski and increase the pressure as you move to the tail.